Practicing with Night Vision

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
2015-02-01
2000 - 2200
05F
20 mph NNW

Goal: Night walk, acclimation.
Forecast showed 20 mph wind and 6F temp. I couldn't pass up an opportunity like this! Our thermometer showed 6F when I went out and 4F when I returned.

Environment: Variable. We had 2 snows yesterday and 2 snows today. Winds hit 30 mph today at 2pm. But there was some sun both days and that has caused melting on the gravel surfaces and then freezing and so ice on most of the gravel and even non-gravel trails on our land. Overcast when I went out, clearing when I returned. At end of journey I could see Cass and barely Andromeda, but not Orion. The moon was a fuzzy orb in the sky but was lighting up the snow. I kept checking to make your my admin light wasn't on, the snow was so bright.

Equipment: Thermal as a handheld monocular on a lanyard around neck. This allows me to let go of the thermal when it is not being used. Dual 14s on helmet. Kestrel, LRF, 3x for 14, .45acp, canteen, walking stick. Light jacket, sweater and wet suit on top with snow pants below. I was not cold except on exposed skin. I had gloves, but had to keep taking right hand off and on to manipulate some of the gear. Left hand remained on. Had to replace thermal batteries at 80% point thru the exercise. Also had snow goggles. And when walking into the 20 mph wind, I was glad I had brought the snow goggles.

Activity: Started off inspecting around the bales with the thermal, looking for rats. Given the warmth and food supply this might be an ideal area for rats, which might be the reason the Coyotes like it around these bales. But the critters were smarter than I tonight, none spotted.
Walked across Turtle Creek Bridge and halfway up Signal Hill doing 360s with the thermal as I went. At top of Signal Hill (about 1280) I got behind the tree (a.k.a. Lone Tree Hill) for cover from the wind and took a drink. I measured 2m avg of 12.7 mph which wasn't as high as I expected. I flipped up the 14s to read the Kestrel and turned on the 3L Red admin light as well. It is visible at 10-15yds per prior testing. I have 4 of these 3l (R, B, G, W) lights they are handy.
I realized the 14s were fogging up ( I had treated both rear eyepiece lenses with anti-fog juice right before I went out, but it was cold. So I flipped one out and continued to use the other.
As I stopped when crossing the pond bridge dam, I decided to flip both 14s up and continue without them. The pasture was very bright to the unaided eye. The big light in the sky, even though significantly obscured by cloud was still lighting up the landscape.
Up on top of Hill 1309 I got a 20.4 mph 2m avg. The wind was pushing me around.
For the descent, I put the snow goggles on my eyes and that was a big relief as I was walking directly into the wind. I could see well enough, at first and the wind and snow was not pelting me in the eyes. I don't think it was snowing, but the wind was whipping up the snow and it was hitting me in the face. But the goggles were a great shield.
About 2/3 of the way back the goggles fogged up so much I took them off and switched to the 14s ... they were actually 100% clear. They had not iced up. The antifog juice might have worked a miracle. Even though the 14s had been right in front of my eyeballs while climbing Signal Hill, when flipped up afterward for about 1 mile of the journey, they had not fogged up. That was great! But I quickly realized the wind had died considerably. So turned them off and flipped them up again. I could see fine and no wind or snow hitting me in the face, I was shielded by a tree line as I went different route on way back.
At the 80% point the thermal died and I changed the batteries. I only had one extra set so I could not power up the DVR any more. I went unaided using the thermal for periodic tree line checks until I reached the bales again. Then I lowered one 14 and used the thermal on the unaided eye to inspect the bales again. No rats spotted.


Results: Total distance traveled a bit over 2 miles in 2 hours including several short stops. It was icy when I tried to walk on the buggy trails, so I got off of them for most of the journey. I guess there had been enough sun to melt the snow by the rocks of the trails and then it re-froze.
The walking stick (a straight 4 foot cottonwood branch I pulled out of our creek 3 years ago (I have another also)). was one of the most critical pieces of equipment I took with me. This item acts like a third leg and since it can be in contact with the ground about 80% of the time, it is almost 2 more legs. The stick slipped several times on the ice, but neither of my other two feet did and I walked many steps on "near" ice, ice that was cracking as I walked across it. I was good to remind myself that under some conditions 14s are not needed to navigate. I walked 70% of the distance tonight without them. I could see fine to walk in the pastures.
I need to take minimum of two extra sets of 123 batteries for the thermal. I have two small zippered pouches to carry 1 pair each. I use rechargables for practice exercises and they don't carry the same charge as the surefire lithiums I use for hunting. About 2 hours, best case for the re-chargables about double that for the surefires.
Anti-fog juice can't stop fogging under 10F degrees, but it can stop icing at least under some conditions. I didn't know that and did not think that was possible. But I saw it tonight. The snow goggles did ice up, but I can't use the juice on them (I don't think - I need to check). The snow goggles did help a lot though. I have another clear lens. By swapping the lens I could probably keep using the snow goggles all night.
On another exercise the EOTech did ice up under similar conditions even though I had prepared both sides of the EOTECH glass with anti-fog juice. Why did the EOTech freeze up and not the 14s under similar conditions? I do not know. Does the Eotech put out enough heat to matter?
 

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
2015-02-04
2100-2200
10F
5 mph NNW

Goal: Zero 125gr SST at 100yds.

Environment: Cool, light breeze, overcast. Moon obscured but fuzzy round orb visible through the clouds. Visibility excellent on the ground as we had a light snow earlier in the day. Temperature dropping to 0F tonight.

Equipment: .308WIN with 125gr SST, L&S 6.5-20x TMR ffp (on 6.5x), PS-22 in front. Dual 14s on helmet. LRF, 3x, canteen, .45acp.

Activity: Setup target, this is a "target center" with 1 inch radius rings, but with black circle is 6 inches instead of the usual 4 inches. I had left off at 60yds, but decided to start at 75yds, figuring I would be on paper.

G01 - 75yds - 1 rd - 7 - 3 inches low, 1.5 inches left.
Cranked up 2 mils. And went to 100yds.

G02 - 97yds - 1 rd - 7 - 3 inches high, 0.5 inches left.
Cranked down .5 mils, moved 3 more yards to the rear.


G03 - 100yds - 1 rd - 8 - 2 inches high, .75 inches left.
I kept thinking the elevation would drop on its own - that I was shooting high, so did not crank down. But I did crank right 0.2 mils.


JCzgDFB.jpg


G04 - 100yds - 2 rds - avg 8 - 2 inches high .75 inches right.
Well I finally gave up waiting for the elevation to drop and cranked another 0.4 mils down.

G05 - 100yds - 1 rd - avg 10 - 0.75 inches high 0.75 inches right.
I only brought 6 rds, so I'll pick up here next time. I did crank down 0.1 and left 0.1 after observing the fall of shot for G05.

==

Results: The sling mount points on this rifle are below the front of the forearm and on the bottom rear of the stock. With all the optics, the rifle is top heavy and carrying handsfree, the rifle wants to tip over and go bottoms up.

I think I need to move the scope forward 1-2 rails, getting best eye relief when the rifle stock is not pressed solidly into my shoulder.

As to position, I think it is working ok in this case. I'm not using rear bag. I'm using harris 9-12 inch bipod at 12 inches. Using left hand with glove as a rear bag. Trying to get vertical cross hair in the center of the target and let breathing move the horizontal cross hair up and down. Try to align things so that the point of exhale is aligned with the center of the target, then start squeezing as the exhale reaches the top of the cycle. Pull to the rear slowly and smoothly and hold trigger to rear.


Still a bit of an issue getting horizontal cross hair level with gravity. This target actually sits slanted to the left, hecque the whole berm is on the side of a hill, so the whole berm is slanted to the left as we look at it. The first three rounds, the cross hair is level, the second three rounds I got the cross hair aligned with the target more than gravity. At this distance, not a big deal, but farther out, can make a big difference, if holding for wind. Need a bit more focus on horizontal alignment.
 

FrankT

Destin FL
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LoneStarBoars Supporter
you ever shoot anything but paper on your property? Coyotes, coons, stray dogs, deer?
 

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
We're not allowed to hunt with NOD in KS. I think rats and mice are not covered by the "hunting" rules. So plan on my land is to go after some rats and mice once .22LR comes back with new MD for new suppressor. For hunting larger creatures, I'll have to go to nearby NOD friendly states, like Texas! If I saw a wild dog on my land I would shoot it. We worry more about them than the coyotes. A dog with no collar should not come on our land.
 

FrankT

Destin FL
LSB TURKEY BUZZARD PRESERVATION SOCIETY
LoneStarBoars Supporter
NOD? Night vision?, not allowed to hunt at night?
 

FrankT

Destin FL
LSB TURKEY BUZZARD PRESERVATION SOCIETY
LoneStarBoars Supporter
well Kansas certainly is behind the times then...still you can call in yotes daytime , you do have them, right?
 

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
yotes? Hecque yeah we have them ... you can see some videos of them above ! They play on our bales lately ... I think some rats live right around the bales ... yes I can hunt in the day ... but I'm 1000% more interested in hunting at night. If I need to hunt for food around here, I will follow the rules and hunt in the day ... but for "practice" I will go out of state and hunt at night where it is ok to do so. States seem to fall into two categories, those where it is ok to hunt some creatures at night with NODs on private land and those states where NODs are not allowed for hunting.
 

FrankT

Destin FL
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LoneStarBoars Supporter
yeah I saw them but no shots on them??
 

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
Right .,, in KS ... coyotes are in a class by themselves ... we can "hunt" them all year long ... night or day ... but need a hunting license ... and recall we cannot "hunt" with NODs ... there are exceptions ... if the coyotes are destroying your livestock (e.g. chickens) and non lethal deterrent means have been tried and failed ... then you can "kill them" ... which I interpret to mean NODs can be used. But, I have no livestock, no chickens, yet. So this exception does not apply to me. If a neighbor had a problem (and many do) they could give me written permission to act on their behalf. And that will probably happen. But I have more land than most of them, so physically it makes more sense to get them on my land ... but this cannot be done until I have chickens. We will have chickens ... and if I see one heading for the hen house, I will encourage it to leave. I will use the same ROE I was taught in the military ... to meet deadly force with deadly force (not the same ROE they use today !!!) ... with coyotes, who cannot shoot back ... I will use warnings ... but if they do not retreat ... I will protect the chickens. I will consider the warnings to be attempts to use non-lethal deterrent. Around here, on my land, I do not expect the Sheriff will object. If a game warden objects ... worst case it is a mis-demeanor ... but that result might encourage ME to leave (KS) ... I certainly hope it does not come to that. We must be allowed to defend our livestock on our land from the state owned predators. That has nothing to do with "hunting". That is why I do not have a KS hunting license, though I do have hunting licenses in other states. I am not "hunting" with my NODs when I go out at night on my land to shoot at paper or metal. Nor am I "hunting" when I go out at night merely to observe the state's wildlife on my land. I have no need for a hunting license in Kansas now, since they do not allow the type of hunting I prefer to engage in. If we get to the point where we want our quota of the State's deer for food. I will get a KS hunting license and get them during the allowed hours.
 

FrankT

Destin FL
LSB TURKEY BUZZARD PRESERVATION SOCIETY
LoneStarBoars Supporter
hey on my property I am using whatever I want to rid the yotes or other predators. who is gonna know?
 

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
I'm going through my third multi-day process in three months of pulling the ejector out of the 7.62 bolt, after removing the retaining pin. Doing this because I started getting stove pipes again. In disassembling the BCG, there were brass flakes everywhere ... but I'm thinking these are a symptom rather than a cause. Some is wrong in the ejector area and it might be the ejector "tunnel" has a micro channel in it some how that let's in brass flakes which cause stove pipes which push brass flakes into the extractor area, etc. I'll probably give up on this rifle. Not because it isn't a decent rifle, but because of the SIG business model which makes it impossible for me to fix issues. I'll have to send it to SIG to get a new bolt, but then I'll sell and get a DPMS platform where I can have extra BCG's sitting around and can get any spare parts I need. But in the mean time, for months, I'll be out of a rifle in this space. For long range, I'll have only the Savage 110ba .338LM which is another decent rifle, but Savage has the same business model as SIG, they will not sell spare parts. For short range, I'll have a 5.56 rifle and a .308WIN rifle. So, in the long run, I need to sell the Savage as well and switch to the Remington platform where I can get spare parts. I'm not sure whether I'll switch to .300WM or stick with .338LM. I have a significant investment in .338LM ammo, dies, brass, bullets, etc. But I think .300WM is a better idea now. Lower ammo cost in exchange for higher barrel cost.
The proprietary rifles seem great when you first get them. But maintainability is king in the long run and that means standard parts availability. Hard lesson I've learned as it will cost me thousands. But I know it now. And the really frustrating aspect is I already know this in my day job ... IT where for years I've advocated for maintainability as a prime attribute of our purchasing. Why did I not think this would apply to guns as well??? What an IDIOT !!!!
 

FrankT

Destin FL
LSB TURKEY BUZZARD PRESERVATION SOCIETY
LoneStarBoars Supporter
I put Companies like that on my do not buy list, just like Ruger..guess I am stuck with the AR platform where my spare parts can build a new rifle if need be.
 

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
I think DPMS is sort of like the "mil spec AR" of the 7.62/.308 world ... not quite, but probably as close as we can get. Call it "DPMS spec" if you like :D. Lots of spare parts, of all flavors ... that all fit the DPMS platform. You can get an 80% lower and a receiver and buy everything else you need to 100 different places if you like. Same with Remington on the bolt gun side. I know these things now. But as long as I'm paying the bills, I'm going for standardization going foward. I just wish I'd known that 2 years ago. None of my "experts" at that time told me anything about "maintain ability" ... but I already should've known ... shame on me ...

I would like to wind up with two "ARs" ... a 5.56 and a 7.62 ... and two "bolt guns" ... a .300WM and a .308WIN ... in addition to my .22LR training rifle ... but this means I'll need to sell/buy 2 rifles to get there. In theory, I agree, I should swap out the ruger .308 for a remington .308 ... and if I can I will ... but I will do the SIG and the Savage first.
 

FrankT

Destin FL
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LoneStarBoars Supporter
well now DPMS has 2 different platforms and neither are interchangeable, then Armalite, the original, has their own. Now *** is coming out w nextgen and it will use a lot of AR 15 parts, you have to really decide which way to go from the beginning. I am leaning towards the ***, like getting a custom gun with their barrel expertise. I have them in my 6.8 and it is the most accurate 6.8 barrel made.

I see no need for the 556, I replaced it with the 6.8, lots more punch and use, then I will go to the 308 like I said probably the Nextgen or DPMS GII.

http://www.ar15performance.com/
Can't give the old DPMS LR 308 away? This is the answer!
The next generation of 308 sized platforms. Finally an option for those too heavy to carry DPMS LR rifles sitting in the back of the safe. For years many have said they wish there was an AR12. A rifle bigger than an AR15 but without the weight of the AR10. In 2009 I designed a "12" more or less. A 7lb 16" barrel 308 or 260 Rem. rifle is possible. Standard 308 Pmags can be used in DPMS style LR 308 lowers. These Nexgen uppers can be built to fire any 308 based cartridges. The new DPMS GII is a very close copy of these uppers.
We will sell kits which include an upper receiver, carrier, bolt and barrel. In addition to that you will need an AR10 charge handle, your choice of any AR15 handguard/rail, gas block, gas tube, AR10 firing pin, AR15 cam pin and cotter, flash hider or comp.
16" 308 and 18" 260 versions avail. Jan 2015. Rifle above weighs 7lbs 10oz as shown with a fluted 20" 6.5x47 barrel.
We will produce the billet receivers, carriers(BCGs), bolts, barrel extensions and barrels. All of those parts are specific to the Nexgen and will be sold in the beginning as sets, other caliber barrels later. All of those parts should run $850. That is apx what you can buy the same DPMS LR308 parts for. You should be able to buy the rest of the upper parts including a $180 rail and have a complete upper for $1100. Those like me who have a LR lower sitting half around not being used because it is so heavy can build a usable high performance rig for $1100. A complete rifle should cost apx 14-1600, considerably less than any LMT, Larue, POF, LWRC or Knight some of which sell for almost $4000.
This is more than just a light 308 AR. By removing the reciprocating weight...heavy carrier, the system does not need to be over-gassed as much to move the carrier. The carrier starts moving later than the AR10 system resulting in less movement and better accuracy. These rifles do not feel like the old clunky AR10 or DPMS LR series rifles. They feel much more like an AR15. Most competitors 308 rifles still have that huge carrier that rocks your whole body when it cycles.

No we aren't the cheapest but we use billet receivers, 9310 alloy bolts, carriers and barrels extensions. Melonite treated 4150 11595E barrel steel. High performance 5R rifling with a low land to groove ratio. With us it's all about performance.
Available in limited quantities Jan 19th
 

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
Oh my, lots of words ... I'll need to re-read and try to understand before replying ... but first ... I want to go outside and play with the toys !!! :)
 

FrankT

Destin FL
LSB TURKEY BUZZARD PRESERVATION SOCIETY
LoneStarBoars Supporter
oh you, long winded one, says there ARE LOTS of words???LOL Have FUN
 

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
Re-read your post and the website ... we should get on the phone and talk, so you live in FL but your work in TN? Hecque of a commute!!!

==
2015-02-08
2000-2100
40F
5 MPH NW

Goal: check zero of .308WIN with 125gr SST at 100yds

Environment: No moon, a few clouds, stars visible. Still unseasonably warm.

Equipment: .308WIN with harris 9-12, 125gr SST, L&S 6.5-20x TMR ffp (on 6.5x), PS-22(g3a), LRF. Primos g2 trigger tripod. Thermal on a lanyard. Dual 14s on helmet. No rear bag

Activity: I first moved the scope and clipon forward one rail, in the house. The PS-22 got moved first, 2 screw rail grabbers, I've finally gotten them properly "balanced" so that both put equal holding tension on the rail. The 6.5-20x scope is on an ADM mount and it was very easy to move it forward. The forward moving of these items was to improve eye relief / length of pull.

First shot at the target hit the 10 ring about .75 inches right of center. I had adjusted last time, so this was the hoped for result. Second shot was a little high in the 9 ring about 1.5 inches from center.
Then I tried two shots with the tripod. I'd never fired off this tripod before. It is very easy to adjust this tripod with one hand, making it more than practical to use it for hunting. These two shots were in the 8 and 7 rings, one off to the right, the other high. There is more "motion" than I expected, so I'll get to get used to this tripod, but I'm within my tolerances for hunting, so I call this good.

Results: So now with the thermal on a lanyard, the 14s on the helmet and the PS-22 on the .308WIN I'm Mission ready" again. I have 5 active rifles, of which 2 of them are currently working. The .338LM (not much use for hunting in any scenarios I'm likely to face) and the .308WIN. Both the bolt guns are up :).
 

FrankT

Destin FL
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LoneStarBoars Supporter
yeah I don't work for *** but he is a founder of the 6.8 SPCII and I use his products in that platform so the Nextgen is a product I follow.
 

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
I like the idea of DMPS for a 7.62/.308 platform due to the wide availability of compatible spare parts ... as to DPMS after market upper ... I wonder if such an upper can take a regular DPMS BCG if the specialty MFG company went belly up? Prefer to move away from proprietary. That might cost some performance, but maintainability is strategic in my book.
==
7.62 symptoms

Mid-Nov ... had three stove pipe events in one night ... removed extractor from bolt, there were some brass flakes in there. Removed ejector with difficulty. Had to soak and use dykes to pull it out AFTER retaining pin removed. There was a brass flake in the ejector tube as well.
Replaced all parts and test fired, everything was fine.

Mid-Dec .... during regular cleaning, removed extractor there were some brass flakes in there.

Early Jan ... got two stove pipes in one night ... removed extractor and ejector. Again ejector was tough to get out ... AFTER removing retaining pin, still had to soak and pull. There were tiny brass flakes in the ejector tube again. This time replaced retaining pin and spring with new parts.

Early Feb ... two stove pipes in one day ... removed extractor and ejector. Brass flakes in both ... ejector still hard to get out had to soak and pull AFTER removing retaining pin.

==

Does anyone have any theories about why this keeps happening?

==

The ejector is not symmetric. I assume I want the flat face side (on the rear) facing towards the retaining pin. Not sure how I put it in last time.
 
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