Discussion in 'Night Vision/Thermal' started by TEXASLAWMAN, May 24, 2016.
Very good. Thank you. This is very helpful.
That is what I did to my 22 upper. Works just fine
Thanks for the video that really me help understand the setting. The manual isn't the explaining the setting.
TLM would the same settings work for the Apollo Pro clip on?
Yes they all have the same core.
Thanks for the tutorial. Saved me a lot of time and headache getting it dialed in.
Awesome video! I noticed like you said that the screen brightness makes a huge difference at first I thought I would turn it all the way down so my eye could adjust to lower light and not be so blown out when I stop looking through the thermal but then learned that the actual image was much worse. Here in Oregon where it is wet a lot and snowing and things the gain makes a huge difference.
I agree every Armasight scope owner should watch this video!
Hi guys. I'm new to the forum and just watched this video a few time as I just bought a zeus 640 42mm. I have to say so far I have been really disappointed, but I am certain most of it is me not being as familiar with the device to get what I need out of it and as I tweak it I do see some improvements. However, I do have a few questions and any feedback is welcomed!
1 - I have adjusted the diopter to what I believe is the best position, which seems to be all the way clockwise so not really adjusted much but that seems to be what fits my eye best. The problem I am having is when I adjust my front focus I have never ever seen anything change at all. Is there something I am doing wrong? All I see for up close images (like 10 feet) is a big blur. Is this normal? Wondering if I should have it sent bak to armasight.
2- When my batteries die my screen starts to go really fuzzy like old tvs used to and then a blank screen. My battery indicator never changes it is always green and then the screen starts freaking out so I change the batteries and everything is fine again. Is this normal?
3 - Obscure edges. It seems like a lot of times that I have obscure or cloudy edges. What is the proper adjustment to help with this?'
4 - With the quick release that comes with this scope do you guys have to re zero the reticle each time you take it off or does it stay pretty close?
Appreciate your help and I have a bunch of videos I will post as I'd love to contribute. Killed a lot of stuff with NV but just getting started with the thermal.
While I have a Reap-ir, I can tell you that looking at things 10 feet away is WAY to close for a thermal.. try something at least 100 feet or more with that size lens else it will look like junk
1) Diopter should be set using the lettering on screen IE black hot, whitehot, ect. Yes you should be able to see a difference when turning the focus ring.
2) That is normale for low battery but the battery indicator should not still show green.
3) I'm not sure without seeing the image could be a number of environmental things, could be the focus.
4) AMD mounts are known for good return to Zero just mount it in the sam spot every time.
The IR defense scopes have fixed focus so you will never get the close stuff in perfect focus they are set for infinity. The Flir/Armasight have adjustable focus ring so you can get from a few feet to infinity perfectly in focus.
Texaslawman another quick question for you. I'm getting better and better pictures as I play around with it more, but one question I have is that sometimes I get some faint vertical lines that look like little pixelations or something. I'm wondering if you have any knowledge on the best setting to combat this if it's a focus or sharpness issue maybe? I know its hard to tell without seeing a video of it, and I"m sure I could explain it better.
Next time you see the lines try doing a manual nuc and see if that makes it go away.
I believe I tried that, but I will now pay attention next time and see if that solves the problem.
I don't have an Armasight product, but when mine needs to be nuc'ed it does some strange things in the image.
Hi, I'm a new member searching for answers to a problem I have with my pulsar helion xq38f monocular. I came upon your answer about the vertical lines issue. I'm having the same problem with vertical lines across the display. It's also in the recorded video. And when I first bought the monocular a few months back the vertical lines were barely noticable but now they are more pronounced. When the monocular calibrates itself the lines go away for a second or two and then come back. It's very annoying to say the least. I'm wondering if this is a common thing with thermal devices or is my unit is going bad. Thanks
J you need to talk to your dealer or Pulsar, certainly is not normal
Thank you, very much appreciated.
I just talked to a fellow on Facebook that has a Pulsar thermal scope and he said that it is normal to have faint vertical lines across the screen. He said it's because of the change in temperature extremes. I did look on YouTube and noticed various thermal scopes from different manufacturers that have the same faint vertical lines as my unit has. Maybe I'm just being picky.
Many thanks for posting - was a huge difference maker for my orientation with the sight!!
I have Apollo 336 clip on in front of Leopuold pig plex the zero on the scope is no where near poi I have turned on the recticle in the thermal and use that to hunt.Any way to correct this without changing the daytime optic zero to match?
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