The Making of a Heavenly Knife.

[bldsmith]

I start with the 400 grit and take out all the 220 scratches.

Then move to 500 grit. Each time I change the grit I also change the direction of sanding. This way I can easily see the previous grits scratches. Then to 600 and finally 800 grit. On the last grit I sand the length of the knife. Here is a comparison. Finished side compared to a 220 grit sanded knife.

Lighting is very important I have a bunch of lights both portable and fixed.

 

[bldsmith]

Onto the next side. I tape off the finished side with 2 layers of tape.

Once both sides are done the magic is about to happen. Here is a little reminder what it looks like. Can't tell what is really happening on the blade yet.

It is now time to etch the blade to bring out the pattern. I use a Ferric Chloride etchant. The same stuff they use to etch printed circuit boards. Mixed 3-1 water to FCL.

 

[bldsmith]

I etch the blade for 10 minutes then take it out and rub it down with 1500 grit sandpaper. I do this 3-4 times wanting a really deep etch. I have one more finishing step after this and the deep etch works best for this. So here is the blade.

Forgive the poor photography. It turned out pretty much exactly like I visioned. The black background is 1095 high carbon spring steel with star flecks and streaking of the meteorite. Here is the other blade. Not quite deep enough etch but I can finish it tomorrow.

That is all for today. More finishing more tomorrow.

 

[Ratdog68]

I was hoping you were gonna say you just re-profiled the broken blade. That's gotta make yer gut hurt when it snaps ! I know that feeling. When I made my longbow, I had 60 hrs. into hand shaping it. My buddy (teacher) was doing one just like it at the same time. He'd been having some serious shoulder issues (and was needing surgery), and asked me to do the full draw on it before the final tillering was done. Yep, the upper limb snapped about six inches from the tip. I was sick to my stomach. That's when he 'fessed up that he'd worked that section a few days earlier, after a few glasses of wine... knew there was a bit of a "hinge" there. He shortened the length of the bow by six inches on the other end and just made a smaller bow from it. But, having just done all that tedious work on MINE... I knew exactly what he was feeling when it snapped. BTW... a "hinge" is where just a LITTLE more wood is removed from one spot (in relation to the rest of the limb), and that spot bends more (not evenly with the arc of the rest of the limb). You look for that while tillering (tuning the arc of each limb when drawn, and seeking the final draw weight) the bow. Remove a little wood, exercise the limbs about 50-100 times and test the arc... and do some more removal here/there and repeat the whole process.

Agreed, it's so easy to have a sanding belt grinder make a deep (unintended) mark with a slip of the paws, or incorrect angle line up. And, yes, changing directions definitely helps you to see when you've removed the scratches from the previous grit's work.

I really like that skeletonized full tang blade.

Amazing how the etching bath really contrasts the different steels like that. The pattern really turned out nice there.

How long is the broken tip piece? Enough there to pin it to a small handle and use it as a carpenter's scribe for marking very fine cut lines?

 

[bldsmith]

The tip is about an inch long. You tell me if it's large enough.

You make bows??? Is your instructors name Cliff by chance??

 

[Ratdog68]

One inch is just a little short. If it was about 2 1/2" it'd be perfect. Too bad. But, it could work as a leather cutting blade I'd guess... still kind of short though. LOL

I've finished one, and have a second one roughed out and ready to be made, and some other stuff standing by as well. My buddy's moved even further away (out into the sticks, so to speak), so getting together ain't as easy as it used to be. No, his name is Kermit. I think I have a link to that build in the archery section... look for "American Flat Bow".

Archery pictures | Lone Star Boars

 

[bldsmith]

So today I am going to finish the blades fully ready to put handles on. First take a look at the last blade I finished ready to etch. I will post at the end the finished product.

I use a parkerizing process to help protect the simple carbon steel and create a very black matrix with bright silver of the nickel bearing steel, Here is the Park Tank.

And 2 blades in the hot tub.

This makes the blade black and it now needs to be sanded with 2500grit.

And the second blade.

 

[bldsmith]

I sand and re soak the blades 2 or 3 times sanding in between. This deposits the parkerizing in the valleys and makes a nice contrast.
First blade.

and second blade

These are now ready to start making the handle. That will be first of the week. I did however finish the other blade and put the handle on it. I just took pics of the end product. I know this thread was originally about the meteorite material. This blade is Cruforge V and 15n20. This one needed to be a ladder pattern. Here is the blade after etching and parkerizing.

The customer wanted this pattern. It was a copy of a knife he had and really liked using. He provided the handle material. It is Bos De Arc or Osage Orange. Used commonly for fence post in the mid-west. I normally do not do full tang knives. 3 brass pins hold it all together Here is a quick cell shot.

Next week putting handle on the meteorite blades.

Thanks for looking.

 

[Ratdog68]

Love me some Osage Orange... that's what I made my longbow from (backed with bamboo) and a little bocote for the riser. I've got enough left over to make several scales with it. It'll darken over time with exposure to the sun. Gorgeous knife there... as are the meteorite blades.

 

[Chopperdrvr]

Beautiful! You make so much progress in such a short time too. I've been working on my project knife for six months and still not ready to put the scales on it yet.

 

[bldsmith]

Beautiful! You make so much progress in such a short time too. I've been working on my project knife for six months and still not ready to put the scales on it yet.

After 24 years forging I have a few of the processes down. Moves along faster when I get into the shop.

 

[Chopperdrvr]

I keep trying to WILL mine to completion, but it doesn't seem to want to listen unless I lay hands on it.

 

[bldsmith]

I hear ya. When I get distracted and leave a blade on the bench, I come back and it is still there, unfinished. Have 5 or 6 sitting there from years ago. Just have to have the inspiration to get to it.

 

[bldsmith]

Did not make any progress on the knives today. Spent the day reorganizing the shop to fit a new pantograph. Been wanting one for years and a student of mine just bought me one. WOOO HOOO.. Will work some more on Wednesday. Has to help build a house Tuesday.

 

[bldsmith]

Well one of the drawbacks of being the sole operator is when stuff comes up I have to take care of it. I had some unexpected situations arise that prevented me from getting too much accomplished this week. I did however get the rest of the blades I heat treated finished to the etch. I still need to parkerize them but they are ready. Here are the blades ready for parkerizing including the 2 I have already done. I have a ton of work ahead of me.

To make up for the lack of posting I will show you how one way I test my heat treat. Here is a blade before the test. Pay particular attention to the tip.

Next hold it point down by the tang.

Now drop it onto the concrete floor point first.

Now inspect the point. If all is well there will be no effect on the blade. If it is to soft it will bend or deform, too hard it will either chip or even break the blade. This one turned out well.

Hopefully I get more into the assembly and final finish this week. I have a show this coming weekend. Plus I have promised 2 knives for the church youth group fundraiser on Saturday. I will be spending some serious extra time in the shop this week.

 

[Ratdog68]

That'd be a bit un-nerving to let go of that blade and watch it drop. Congrats on a safe landing though. LOL

 

[Chopperdrvr]

No way I could do that after putting so much work into the blade. For my purpose, the blade might be a little soft, and that means it won't hold an edge very long. I would rather re-sharpen more often than take the chance on ruining the blade. ( but I'm not making them to sell either.)

 

[bldsmith]

It can be unnerving for sure. However as pointed out I am selling these and want the best performance out of each one. If they don't make the cut they don't go out. I would rather have to re-heat treat than send out an inferior blade. The heat treat may take a few hours but the inferior knife is out there forever. There are a few I sold in the very beginning I would love to get back.

 

[bldsmith]

Made a bit of progress today. First I parkerized the remaining blades so they are all to the same stage. Now I will be less likely to get distracted by unfinished projects. So I picked out 2 knives to begin fitting handles on.

First I prep the tangs for a piece of all-thread. I have done some pretty extensive testing and found when done right the stick tang is jsut as strong as a full tang without the weight. I have made hundreds of stick tang knives and not a single one has failed. Even my heavy duty choppers have all performed well. Even taking the American Bladesmith Society cut and bend test, where the knife is essentially destroyed. SO here is how I prep the tangs. Cut them to length and notch them to fit the All-Thread.

Then I Silver Braze the all thread onto the tang. This is a very High strength solder I used to braze carbide crushing hammer onto their holders. Looks like I forgat to take a pic of this one. Moving on, I have to grind the all thread to the same thickness as the Ricasso or less so the guard can slide on.

Here are all the parts that will go into making the handle.

The guards will be 303 Stainless with Phosphor Bronze and stainless spacers. The handles will be stabilized wood, black dyed sycamore and Black Walnut. I will also use 1/16th inch dia dowel pins and a 5/16th inch dia piece of stainless to make the nut to hold it all together.

 

[bldsmith]

The barstock is too thick and has a mill finish so I need to mill down.

I cut the pieces to size that will fit the blade. Then I sand them to 400 grit getting them ready to put on the blade.

Need to paint them with Dykem so I can scribe the center line.

And scribing the center line.