Night Vision Use Tips.

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
... I^2 devices are inherently better for identification than thermal devices (well, thermals that don't have several commas in the price that we can't buy anyways). This has been beat to death all over the internet, but it is worth saying again. However, one small thing you can do to aid in picking up target details with a thermal is to switch back and forth between white hot and black hot. Sometimes it will allow you to pick up small details that would have been otherwise missed...

When I first started going out on my observation walks (no weapons) with the thermal I would mistake deer for both turkeys and cows. Well, I was an novice then, but, I called them "grazers" in my brain. And the "head down and not changing position much" posture is that of a grazer. Noting that turkey's are not usually on the ground grazing at night, at least not on my land, and noting that cows are rarely alone, gives a first clue. By now, I can tell the difference within seconds, but it does take some time observing and watching how they MOVE. But it does't take 20 years. I've been able to get there within a few months.

As to magnified i^2 ... oh my ... the second device on my belt, besides my LRF, is my 14 3x magnifier. I have never seen a more clear image than the 3x magnifier slipped on the front on my left side L-3 14. That is the clearest image I have seen from any NOD. At 300yds, I feel like I can reach out a touch the trees or whatever I'm looking at. Time permitting, slipping the 3x magnifier on to a 14 on your helmet is a great way to identify.
How to weaponize that? Well, with the ir-laser of course. So at 300yds with the 3x magnifier can I get a 2 moa group with the ir aiming laser? I haven't tried it yet, as I've been focused on practice for a different purpose, but I believe it is possible and I will try it this winter.
But the 3x slip on - on a 14 is an amazing image. And if there is any moon, then it is day time with a 3x scope.
The downside of the 3x magnifier is the pouch. This is the delivered pouch, but to remove the magnifier it is a major velcro ZIIIIIPE ... and I had a deer at 100yds move away from me when I unzipped the magnifier pouch. So for me, the action item in this area is to find a different pouch that isn't so loud.
 

Ncorry

LSB Member
SUS VENATOR CLUB
LoneStarBoars Supporter
The downside of the 3x magnifier is the pouch. This is the delivered pouch, but to remove the magnifier it is a major velcro ZIIIIIPE ... and I had a deer at 100yds move away from me when I unzipped the magnifier pouch. So for me, the action item in this area is to find a different pouch that isn't so loud.

I have a series of bungee webbing on my helmet, and I jsut slip the slip on adapter of the 3x under one of the bungee cords. WOrks fine when I'm using my helmet. I mostly use the night cap now, so I found that a canteen pouch that has a clip instead of a velcro flap works well.
 

rgilbert

LSB Active Member
LSB TURKEY BUZZARD PRESERVATION SOCIETY
SUS VENATOR CLUB
When I take my 14 out of the padded canteen case and place it on my helmet, I put my magnifier in it. I hate the Velcro noise too.
 

Delta4-3

LSB Member
Vendor
'll be updating this thread with cheap little "tips" related to night vision.

One of the questions I get asked often by customers purchasing head mounted NVG's is if they need an aperture reduction device. There are a couple great products on the market including the Tarsier Eclipse and the PHOKUS hoplite. Both are great products and each has their own advantages that are perfect for certain customers, and I carry both. However, there are redneck ways to accomplish the task and save some coin in the process. Starting 10 years ago, or likely more, soldiers would take a Butler Creek flip up cap, heat the neck of an expended 7.62 case, and force it through the center of the cap. When you need to focus up close, you could just flip the cap down. The problem with this is that the hole now lets in too much light to use it as a pinhole cover. Any easy fix is to drill a hole in the center of the cap (I use .341", but larger or smaller will work) and epoxy in a piece of cheap IR pass through film. It's important to use a two part epoxy rather than an adhesive like super glue as the super glue will eat the IR coating off the film, and tends to wick across smooth surfaces. Then you end up with a $10 solution to a problem that may not be worth more to you personally. Again, there are applications where factory made devices are a better solutions, but for many, this works fine.

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Oso Grande

LSB Active Member
LoneStarBoars Supporter
Great ideas! Thanks for writing all this out.

As other's have said, some things we may have known but forgotten all about or never knew in the first place.....
 

Delta4-3

LSB Member
Vendor
Here's another one. Not everyone wants to drop the coin on a team wendy helmet, but doesn't want the discomfort of a Pro-Tech, and don't trust the shroud on an OPS-Core. There are actually some good airsoft helmets out there that are quite comfortable but the shrouds should not actually be trusted to hold nods. What you can do though is find an air soft version with good pads and a good dial system, cut the front of the helmet out, fill it with epoxy (reinforce the whole front of the helmet with epoxy) and bolt/epoxy on a usgi shroud that can be found cheap, or in most cases for free. Then you can make a shock cord tether system on top, and replace pads with other materials, and end up with a very comfortable, very stable helmet for $50.
You'll also notice the lanyard in this pic. It's very durable (It took just as much to break it as it did a $60 Wilcox when I tested it) and it costs $3 at Hobby Lobby.
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Cazz

US Army Veteran, Hunting Addict
SUS VENATOR CLUB
LoneStarBoars Supporter
Great information. Thank you!
 
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