Ratdog68
LSB Official Story Teller
LSB TURKEY BUZZARD PRESERVATION SOCIETY
SUS VENATOR CLUB
LoneStarBoars Supporter
I bought this little skinner a few years back. It’s a skeletonized handled knife (US Made), which is light/compact and retails for about $25. But, the nylon sheath sucks. It doesn’t sit centered, the first time the knife is drawn, the retention strap gets cut. I’d already given it a paracord wrap to the handle and incorporated a lanyard, but refused to wear the knife until I addressed the sheath. So… I drew a pattern, cut it out, and cut myself some leather.
Three pieces: Sheath, Welt, Filler Strip. With the welt/filler glued in place, the body of the sheath is ready to be folded over. I’d cut a trough along the fold with a “V” Gouge so the leather would lay better when folded. The filler strip presses against the sheathed blade and the added friction helps to secure the blade in the sheath.
Next up, skive the end of the belt loop flap. It’ll be glued/stitched at the blade insertion point of the sheath. I also trimmed the three glued layers of leather to an even edge, did some edge bevel work and got it ready for burnishing.
With the belt loop glued into place, and the fit of the knife to the sheath confirmed, it’s time to proceed to the next step.
With the edges of the leather burnished smooth, I cut a trough for the stitch line, which will bed the stitching into the face of the leather. I also burnished a decorative crease on edges which will not be stitched. This time, I decided to use “Pricking Irons” to space/punch my stitching holes into the leather. I must admit, I’m becoming a HUGE fan of this (over using an over-stitch wheel/awl) means. I’m finding it’s much easier to keep an even stitch line on the back face of the leather and makes for a neater appearance.
As usual, I used a saddle stitch along the welt, and to anchor the belt loop flap to itself. Here’s the front side of the sheath.
Three pieces: Sheath, Welt, Filler Strip. With the welt/filler glued in place, the body of the sheath is ready to be folded over. I’d cut a trough along the fold with a “V” Gouge so the leather would lay better when folded. The filler strip presses against the sheathed blade and the added friction helps to secure the blade in the sheath.
Next up, skive the end of the belt loop flap. It’ll be glued/stitched at the blade insertion point of the sheath. I also trimmed the three glued layers of leather to an even edge, did some edge bevel work and got it ready for burnishing.
With the belt loop glued into place, and the fit of the knife to the sheath confirmed, it’s time to proceed to the next step.
With the edges of the leather burnished smooth, I cut a trough for the stitch line, which will bed the stitching into the face of the leather. I also burnished a decorative crease on edges which will not be stitched. This time, I decided to use “Pricking Irons” to space/punch my stitching holes into the leather. I must admit, I’m becoming a HUGE fan of this (over using an over-stitch wheel/awl) means. I’m finding it’s much easier to keep an even stitch line on the back face of the leather and makes for a neater appearance.
As usual, I used a saddle stitch along the welt, and to anchor the belt loop flap to itself. Here’s the front side of the sheath.