I get one of the reactive targets from Wal Mart (black but shows white when hit). I take a knife and cut a 2" hole in the middle of the target. I get a foot warmer and staple it to a box and staple the target so the foot warmer is showing in the 2" hole I cut. I shoot the target from 25 yards and walk the crosshairs from the point of aim to the point of impact until I get the crosshairs set. I move the target back to 50 yards and repeat the process. Once I get the point of aim and the point of impact @ 50 yards, I move it back to 75 yards. Perform the same process then do it again at 100 yards. Usually takes me less than 30 minutes. I do it in the side yard after the kids go to bed. Biggest issue in doing it this time of year is the mosquitoes!
Each brand of thermal has it's own way of zeroing which is usually described in the user's manual. Some are just like a day scope and some have the ability to hold the cross hairs on target while a second set of cross hairs are moved to the point of impact. This can allow you to make a one shot zero. It would help to know which scope you are trying to zero or if you are just asking for ideas for targets.
I use the thick,flat black poster paper from Wal Mart. I put three layers of that shiny aluminum tape that you can get at hardware stores or auto parts stores in the center. The tape is 2 inches wide and I cut pieces 2 inches long.
I put this out at 50yds during the daylight hours when I first get to the range. By the time that I get setup,the cardboard is hot from the sun,and the tape that reflects the sun is cooler giving me enough heat differential to easily see the center tape target.
My scopes electronic clicks move about .3" with each push of the button and I move it onto center as I would any other scope. I have had my thermal on three different guns and it has never taken me more than 5 shots to zero. --- pruhdlr
I put this out at 50yds during the daylight hours when I first get to the range. By the time that I get setup,the cardboard is hot from the sun,and the tape that reflects the sun is cooler giving me enough heat differential to easily see the center tape target.
My scopes electronic clicks move about .3" with each push of the button and I move it onto center as I would any other scope. I have had my thermal on three different guns and it has never taken me more than 5 shots to zero. --- pruhdlr
I've got an armasight zeus 336. It had been on my 5.56 but yesterday I was going to mount it on my 6.8. During the sighting in process i ran out of elevation. -60 was as far as it would go and i will still off paper at 100yd. At 25yd with a -60 i was 2" high. Windage is perfect at 9. Any suggestions as to what might be going on or a fix?
More often than not, I zero my thermal scopes on steel targets, silhouettes. I get an approximate zero at 50 yards with cheap ammo and switch to 100 yards with my hunting ammo to refine the zero. I head shoot the silhouette targets, the center of the head being the POA. I correct the W&E until my hits impact where I want them.
You can also use small pill bottles with water that is frozen. Remember,a thermal shows a temperature differential, not simply heat. A plus is when you hit the bottle. You see a huge blast of white or whatever other color you have selected in your thermal. --- pruhdlr
Fla_dogman
LSB Member
I use steel targets, in the sunlight they retain more heat and show up well. I think black hot does better than white. Really the only thing you need is contrasting heat signatures.
Oh, I think I have a variety of things warehoused in the freezer that might be good candidates for the range!