Armasight Zeus 336 questions

[ga-toter]

I am trying to get a 336 30hz 3-12 setup for hog hunting and I am kinda stumbling around in the dark, so to say.

I have read the manual several times and searched here and on the net for recommended settings, but not finding exactly the info I am wanting.

I got the scope so far out one time, I lost the reticule and could not get it back. First reset to defaults didn't do it, but finally got it back.

When I accidentally get the right settings (or close) dialed in, this thing really rocks. But most times I get things too grainy, or can't seem to focus the image with either focus ring (usually just the front, as I can see lettering in the image just fine).

I do not believe there is anything wrong with the scope, it is the loose nut behind it causing the problems.

One thing I found is after using outdoors on a 40 degree night, the 60% of the center of the image appears to be through a water droplet covered lens. No fogging observed when physically looking at the objective lens.

Also, how do I set the gain, sharpness, and smart scene so my image looks similar to the videos posted here? The recommendations on one of your videos is settings 20 to 30 , or so, whereas some posters say zero on some of the settings.


The technology in these scopes is amazing, I just need to go to school on getting the most out of it.

Thanks, and if this is an oft posted question, please forgive and direct me where I need to be.

 

[Taco]

What are you looking at whilst adjusting the settings? I use Todd's settings at 100 yards looking at a cow or horse and for the most part I'm focused to 200 yards. After that I don't fiddle with the obj focus. Kind of unfortunately as Todd says it's all about your eye. There are no "just right" settings. Some of the video I've seen from 336 predators, like the orchard hunt, is pretty incredible.

 

[ga-toter]

I am focusing on a fence, then looking at my mule at about 85 yds. When I stumble on a good setting, detail is great.

I understand conditions vary wildly, even on the same night. Just wanting to hear what the pros do, as I have read the defaults aren't explained as to what conditions they are optimized for.

 

[Taco]

Ok maybe someone will chime in with specific 336 42mm settings. I'm not one for dialing things up and down all night back and forth. With a 336 scope I don't know how much detail you're gonna get past 75 yards or so.

 

[ga-toter]

I was looking at a wooded area last night and thought the mule was eating acorns at about 150 yds. I saw a "body" but it was not moving.

I switched from white hot to black hot, and it was obviously a round bale of hay I had thrown away on the other side of the fence.

I tried the red fire setting, and saw glowing areas at the base of the trees. I am guessing this is just showing minor temp gradients?

A nice clear image at 75 yds works for me if I can get it.

 

[Taco]

There may be something wrong with your scope. With a 336 predator I can easily ID a horse/cow pasr 200 yards. At 250 on 1x zoom I could make a shot on a horse. When I say detail I meant eyes, sweat on flanks, ears, noses, tail swishing......those things not so much at 200, but ID and shoot yes. At 150 with a 42mm 336 can you see it's a mule.....legs, head shape, ears?

 

[TEXASLAWMAN]

336, 640, 42mm, 10mm the setting are all going to be the same with the same pallet. Some days are just bad for thermal, temperature, and humidity can make it look like a great black and white tv, or a grainy mess. Some nights the conditions are just bad no matter what you do. 99.9% of the time you will still be able to hunt it just won't look so pretty.

 

[ga-toter]

Using one suggestion. I set contrast on 2 and the sharpness on 0 and the smart scene at 0. Temp 37 with a 10 degree dew point spread and 65% humidity, no recent rain.

It looks very good, and what I will plan to use next weekend. I can easily tell which animal is which at over 80 yds. The graininess is gone and 2X is very clear, 4X is usable under these conditions (normal for this time of year).