Correct primers

Rappland

LSB Member
I understand powder is specific. After reading a bunch of data primers are not neccasarily listed and it seems as long as they are the right size, it's whatever works best. Am I right?
 

rgilbert

LSB Active Member
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I understand powder is specific. After reading a bunch of data primers are not neccasarily listed and it seems as long as they are the right size, it's whatever works best. Am I right?
NO! Primers have different flash rates that can effect the pressure of the loaded cartridge. All manuals listed the correct primer. Stick to that info.
 

Chopperdrvr

Deep East Tx
SUS VENATOR CLUB
Yes and no. If there are no primers listed as in the Lee book you can use any brand but stick with standard and not magnum unless you are loading a magnum cartridge. The most important thing to remember is ALWAYS start at least 10% below the maximum listed load and work your way up VERY carefully while checking all brass for signs of excess pressure. If a brand is listed, sticking with that will give you more consistent results that were already tested by the authors. You can deviate quite a bit from posted loads, but only after you have obtained a substantial amount of experience and understanding of what is happening.
 

Rappland

LSB Member
Thanks chopper. As you stated not all manuals state what primer was used for given data. My Lee manual has no mention of primer brand. Because I'm new to this I will start well below 10% under max. These first several batches will be for target and test obviously anyway and not for the hunt. It will be good practice/exposure for me to load low and incrementally go up. I'm going to grab some S&B sr primers on my way home today to load my SSA, Hornady, & S&B brass unless someone tells me these primers are no good. Thanks again.
 

Chopperdrvr

Deep East Tx
SUS VENATOR CLUB
I don't have any experience with the S&B primers. I usually stick with the CCI if available, but I have heard a lot of good about the Tula primers for price and consistency. They do have harder cups which sometimes account for misfires if your rifle tends to have light primer strikes. Bottom line, use what you can get and be meticulous about what you do and document every step so that you can duplicate it when you want and don't do it again if it doesn't work out. Also, I wouldn't start too low, you can run into a problem with detonation in the round instead of consistent burning. The starting load suggestions are usually low enough to be safe in any gun. Take your time and enjoy your new hobby. It can be very rewarding and frustrating at the same time but when you kill your first animal with ammo you created yourself it can be a great feeling of accomplishment.
 

Rappland

LSB Member
What is so special about those CCI benchrest primers? I know they are not for my 6.8 loads as precision is not needed, but for my 308 loads, if they are worth the $, I might like to use them.
 

Chopperdrvr

Deep East Tx
SUS VENATOR CLUB
Manufacturing quality control is the most likely reason for the additional cost. They are designed to be the most consistent from primer to primer and batch to batch. For hunting purposes, what is the difference in a 1 inch group at 100 yds vs. 1/2 inch group.
 

Rappland

LSB Member
Manufacturing quality control is the most likely reason for the additional cost. They are designed to be the most consistent from primer to primer and batch to batch. For hunting purposes, what is the difference in a 1 inch group at 100 yds vs. 1/2 inch group.
Agreed, that's why I won't bother with them in my 6.8 loads. I rarely shoot hogs past 120 yards. If I can't hit them that close, it aint the primers.
 

slim_shady

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LoneStarBoars Supporter
What is so special about those CCI benchrest primers? I know they are not for my 6.8 loads as precision is not needed, but for my 308 loads, if they are worth the $, I might like to use them.

I use cci 41 for my 6.8 and winchester WLR for my 308.
 
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