Trigger question

[RattlesnakeDan]

So the last 2 hogs I shot were not recovered. I felt like I flinched on both shots, I am not a flincher so it was bothering me. I thought maybe it was some subconscious thing from firing that crazy loud AR pistol, which is now thankfully gone far from me.
So I take up my gun and settle on a chicken across the way out my window. Obviously empty chamber and mag well. I do some dry firing, still feels like I am flinching going dry. Something is not right so I realize the trigger feels harder than it did before. I shoot so many different guns I can't really remember whats what sometimes.
So anyway I take my trigger assembly out and the hammer seer has actually left an indentation in the trigger block. On the face and on top. Deep enough to feel it. I wet sand with some oil and emery cloth to get it smooth without taking too much off of course so to leave a sharp edge.
My concern is this, is this a bad trigger that should be replaced ( soft metal perhaps) or is this not uncommon.
It has clearly got worse since I have had the gun, original owner and only a few hundred rounds through it, maybe not even 300 is all.
Any suggestions would be appreciated!

 

[FrankT]

standard trigger?? I might have a spare mil spec here if you want to try it. I run a Geissele and RRA match 2 stage.

 

[RattlesnakeDan]

It's a standard trigger came with DTI lower.

 

[Chopperdrvr]

If Frank can't help , I have a couple extras too.

 

[FrankT]

Yeah I have 1 PM me your address and I will get it out to you

 

[RattlesnakeDan]

So you think it is just a bad trigger? I don't have experience with AR's that way.

 

[RattlesnakeDan]

Thanks Frank and Chopper. I think I may look into a Geissele trigger setup. It's a keeper gun so I don't mind going the right way with it.

 

[FrankT]

I have no idea, but with this you can try or mix and match and get it working maybe
your trigger should not be digging into anything. There are utube out there to improve a standard trigger, they may help you

 

[Ratdog68]

It's not uncommon at all for a mil-spec trigger to be NASTY... gritty, and heavy. Stoning the sear mating surfaces is a good thing. Just enough to remove the machining marks. Too deep, and you go through the hardened surface. And, as you already talked about, NOT changing the sharpness of edges and geometry. You can also lighten the pull more with a JP yellow spring kit.

Aftermarket... first and foremost, decide whether you like a two-stage, or a single stage. Me... single stage all the way. I have two: a Mega billet, and a Wilson Combat TTU drop in unit. Both are sweet. The Mega "rests" a little more "forward" than others... only thing about it which I would change.

If Geissele offered a single stage, I'd have one. I just don't like two stage.

Working a mil-spec over, with a spring kit, you can make a vast improvement over how they come.

 

[RattlesnakeDan]

Don't understand the difference between a single and 2 stage will have to look deeper. Until then Frank is sending me a better one than I have. It has been an issue since day one but finally time to do something about it.

 

[Ratdog68]

Two-stage... finger on the trigger, pull back and you're taking up slack... until it stops. Continue pulling and the trigger breaks to fire.

Single stage... finger on the trigger, no slack to take up, just the stop you feel. Continue pulling and the trigger breaks.

Both "reset" the same, just no slop (err... "slack") to take up with a single stage. More like my Rem 700 bolt action triggers.

 

[customcutter]

Trigger work is nothing to be taken lightly. Do some good research, make sure you have good positive engagement. If you cause your semi-auto to turn full auto, it is not a good thing. People want to talk with you that you don't want to talk to.

 

[FrankT]

All packed up, in the mail tomorrow Danny Boy!!

 

[RattlesnakeDan]

Trigger work is nothing to be taken lightly.
A little play on words. lol

 

[pruhdlr]

I have worked alot of milspec triggers in my time. I was cutting the "tails" off of hammers back in the mid 80's. This,when there were NO aftermarket triggers from any manufacturer. I still have one in a AR and it is the very best that I ever did. It still does not compare to one of my Geissele or even better a ATC AR Gold trigger that I got several months ago.

Not trying to poo-poo on this parade,however,my guess is that you will NEVER make any milspec trigger parts into an aftermarket trigger like the ones that cost >$180. Not saying not to give it your best try,over and over,and over. THEN ............ buy a aftermarket drop in trigger pack. One that has NO adjustments. No little screws to turn for letoff,overtravel,and the like. Simply pull the pins,stick it in,and expierance a 3lb trigger with (super important) ---> NO CREEP.

Make sure before you install this expensive trigger to lube it with some grease .... NOT OIL !! THEN --> normal trigger control will give you better groups on paper and better shot placement on animals. BTW,I love a 2 stage trigger,especially if the first stage is light(ATC AR Gold). Looking at an animal with safety off I like being able to take up the slack and "stage" the trigger for letoff. --- pruhdlr

 

[theblakester]

I like the 2 stage triggers too.

 

[RattlesnakeDan]

Thanks for the trigger Frank!
My stock set up had a strange creep (not me) the trigger, and had worn some new marks after just a dozen dry fires.
Dropped in the new mil-spec from Frank, no creep and crisp. Very much Gooder!!!
Thanks!

 

[FrankT]

Yeah I am glad it works...really not sure what it is...is it a 2 stage? if so it is a RRA if not it is a milspec

 

[RattlesnakeDan]

Not a 2 stage, but it's much better than what I had.

 

[FrankT]

Glad I could help...it might have been cleaned up when in use...kill lots w it