The Making of a Heavenly Knife.

Ratdog68

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It's nice seeing how others do their work, and to compare to one's own perceptions of doing things.

Do you belt grind edge to spine, or spine to edge for initial bevel shaping? And... do you grind in the same direction for finish edge work?
 

bldsmith

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I always grind edge up. I can see what I am doing that way. The only way I can describe it is I chase the shadow. I start with a slight shadow between the edge and belt. Grind until the shadow is almost gone then tilt the spine closer to create another shadow. Repeat until I get to where I want the grind to be.

I do all of my finish grinding on a 9" disc. I get true flat grinds that way.
 

Ratdog68

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I like that following the shadow technique... with a good/consistent/STATIONARY light source. LOL
 

Chopperdrvr

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And a steady hand! Don't stop now, you have just about convinced me that I have no talent for this.
 

rrv333

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Fascinating, nothing boring about this whole process and the photos are excellent as well.
 

bldsmith

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Another day in the shop. Made a bit of progress and a lot of dust. I need to finish grind all the blades I rough ground yesterday. In order to get the bevel shoulders equal I use another jig. These are also precision ground but have carbide faces. I can hit them on the grinder and not destroy them. Top is a blade in the jig. Next a rough ground blade. Bottom is the blade prior to grinding.

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A finished ground knife before heat treat.

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Here is a shot that I tried to show the bevels and shoulders. They should be as square and even and centered as possible.

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I now it is a bit hard to see the difference in the rough and finished grinds. If I leave to much material it will take a lot of time after the blade is hardened. There is some minor adjustments that can be made after heat treat but this is pretty much ground as it will be on the finished knife.

PS I will get a better shot of the last picture tomorrow. It was hard trying to do it all one handed. [:eek:)]

I finish ground 14 blades today. My hands were cramping up from grinding so much. That was a pretty productive day. I will think about heat treating tomorrow. I would like to have more to do since I have to set up my new HT system. I will see how it goes and will update more later.
 

bldsmith

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I like that following the shadow technique... with a good/consistent/STATIONARY light source. LOL


There is no such thing as too much light. I have lights everywhere and bring in 2 portable halogens to boot. Even then it can be difficult to see what I need to .
 

bldsmith

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Have not forgotten about this thread. I spent the day trying to get more knives ready for Heat Treat. It will probably be Wednesday before I get it done. Thanks for keeping up with the thread.
 

Ratdog68

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No worries, enjoying the updates just the same.
 

bldsmith

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Well it is Wednesday. Had a pretty busy day in the shop. I had made a new High Temperature salt pot but never got around to run it. I had 18 knives ready to heat treat so I figured it would be good to get the salt pot running today.

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Basically it is just a forge with a stainless tube in the middle. Got it going and it took a couple of hours to get it up to temperature and stabilized.

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First I need to do what is called thermal cycling. I run the salt pot at 1600f or above for the first cycle.

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The blades are soaked for approx 10 minutes. Then taken out and air cooled.

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Hanging up cooling

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Ratdog68

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Never heard of a Salt Pot. Inktristink though.
 

bldsmith

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In this picture you can see a little bit of the pattern coming through.

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And a rack full of knives.

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I need to do 2 more cycles, one at 1500f and then 1450f. This takes quite some time. Each time I soak the blades 10 minutes. I do more than one blade so It goes a little faster but still took a few hours. The importance of doing this thermal cycling is to improve the grain structure of the steel. It also stabilizes the steel after the heat from forging and grinding.

Next I turn the salt pot back up to 1500f and start the soak again. Need to soak another 10-15 minutes after the salt temp stabilizes. I only put 3 blades in this time. It is hard to capture the quench by myself. So I did not even try. I pull the blade out of the salt after the soak and it has to go straight into the quench tank. Edge down and as straight in as possible. I use a commercial quench oil for my heat treating. Here is a shot of one of my quench tanks.

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So what could possibly go wrong? This is arguably the most important step in the knife making process. I tell people you can take a mediocre steel and nail the heat treat to make a great knife, or some high end steel and screw up the HT and have a crappy knife. This is why I like to use known materials in my blades as much as possible. Most steels like a slightly different process. Whether it be the quench temperature or in the tempering. The steels I used like the same temp for the quench but a slightly different tempering process. If you do not get the temperature right before the quench ie too low, you could have a soft blade, Too high it might be brittle or even crack. You also need to know the quench medium. I have some steel that is water quench steel, though I use a very fast oil. Water is not forgiving at all. Heat treating is very important in the knife making process. I cannot stress this enough.

A little oil smoke in the shop.

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Here is an oven full of quenched blades going through their first temper.

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bldsmith

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Close up of a few blades.

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The tempering process actually takes a very brittle blade and softens it to a usable hardness. Here again too hard and it will be chippy or could break. Too soft and it won't hold an edge. You need to find the happy medium. Tonight I put them all in at 400F for 2 hours. Tomorrow I will separate them out as some of them are O-1 which requires a higher tempering temperature. So they will get another 450F 2 hour soak.

That's it for today. Next we will get into finishing.
 

bldsmith

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Never heard of a Salt Pot. Inktristink though.

The salt pot is really nice. It is a very stable heat. Rapid heat transfer. The blade is up to temp within a minute or so. Also there is no atmosphere to cause problems reducing carbon content. It also actually removes a lot of any residual scale. I really like the salt pot.

Now the drawback. I sold may last salt pot. With all of the benefits there is one huge drawback. They can be very dangerous. If you are not careful and put a damp item into the salt it has explosive results. It will splatter molten salts all over like a mini volcano. I burned myself really bad with my last one. I was not careful and dropped a damp temp probe in the molten salt. It vaporized the canvas on the back of my work gloves and stuck to my skin on 3 fingers. Another time I was heating it up and the top had not melted. The pressure built up and when it finally let go a stream of molten salt shot 10 feet and hit me in the eye. Luckily it hit the eyelid and not the eyeball.

The salt pot is to valuable not to have one. I decided I just need to be super careful. I wear leather apron, gloves, and a full face shield anytime I go near the running pot. It is also right at the front of the shop so I can get it out if I have to.
 

Ratdog68

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Definitely NOT an adult beverage kind of process there. Glad to hear you've upgraded the PPE for it's use.
 

rrv333

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Fascinating stuff
 

bldsmith

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Yea, I did without a salt pot for a long time. The main reason I went back to one was higher quality blades. It just does a better job. I need to remain anal about safety though. Pretty much in most all aspects of knife making. It can cut, burn, poison or cause respiratory problems. Crap I better retire! No way I enjoy it too much.
 
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bldsmith

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Lots of pictures today. Did some finishing today. Started off after the final tempering laying out what I had.

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Before I do any finish grinding I need to make sure they are all straight. The meteorite chunks seemed to cause some problems. The long strands are a different material than the matrix so it caused uneven stresses. This in turn caused warping in a couple of the blades. I needed to straighten them out. It all went pretty well. What was the worst that could happen??

This is the blade that warped the most.

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Can't really see it in this shot. But it warped significantly. I will not send out a warped blade. SO I tried to straighten it.

The worst happened.

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I let it cool a little too much out of the tempering oven and I lost the tip of the blade. Luckily I was able to regrind it to a shorter blade. I will post it later.

Here are the 3 blades I want to get done first.

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They are ground to 220 grit on the 9" disc. The rest is done by hand. I am sure some are asking, Why?? Can't you finish faster with a machine?? Well yes and no. I lose a lot of control on the machine. I can adjust the grind slightly by hand and make lines come together easier than on a machine. I also get a much finer finish. I can always tell a machine finished blade due to tell tale marks. They can make a very nice knife look amateurish. I did the machine finishing and did not like the result. SO I went back to hand finishing. So let's get going.

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