Ranging coyote at night

ZenArchery

ZenArchery

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Just takes practice. Thermal doesn't display depth perception.

While there is still day light I break out range finder to mark mental distances. Use top of trees anything that is high above the tree line.

It's worked for me so far.
 
Chopperdrvr

Chopperdrvr

Deep East Tx
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^^What he said. I range easily identifiable points before it gets dark and make a mental note of them. The more you do this, the easier it gets to estimate after dark.
 
BigRedDog

BigRedDog

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wigwamitus

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
Most laser range finders (LRF) use ir-lasers. You press the "fire" button and pulses of ir-laser are sent towards whatever the LRF is pointing at. If possible, some of the pulse energy bounces back to the unit, is picked up and processed to produce the range output in the display.
I use my Bushy 1600 Arch Elite with a PVS-14 to range at night and it works great. But, do I try it when I have a target critter in my sights? No, not enough time. Putting an LRF on the rifle gains time. You can range a target, glance up/over at the display and have a range. Then get back on target quickly. There is the issue of how to optimally "zero" a rifle mounted LRF. But it can be done.
With a handheld LRF, I use it when setting up. I can range the treelines, ponds, other nearby landmarks. Then I can estimate the range to a critter based on that knowledge. But I can't dynamically range a critter unless in a team scenario.

Edit: The difference between ranging with an LRF in the day versus at night ... is that at night, with the PVS-14 you can SEE the pulses and hence be real sure whether they are on the target you are trying to range. I believe I can range more accurately at night for this reason.

Edit 02: Another idea is to use tracers ... they would be VERY visible with either NV or thermal. Night shooting in the Army I was in was tracers and full auto (tracers every 3rd round in the M16s which were fired on full auto). I have not tried this idea yet. But combined with DJ's "bring lots of ammo" idea ... the tracers would help you see whether you are high or low if you are. Pulling the trigger fast and controlling the weapon then become important. Do you want to do this, or do you want to focus on being "good enough" at range estimation - we have to decide.

With something resembling a 50/200 yard double zero ... it should not matter much. Less than 2 inches variance for me with the weapons I hunt with ... if 50/200 double zeroed. So, remind me why we even need to range?
Well we need to be able to tell if we are under about 250yds or not. But if not, then can we call the yote closer or stalk in closer? Should be possible many times out of all times!
 
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DarkNight

LSB Member
Thanks for the advice. I'm still deciding whether to go with Gen 3 vs thermal scope for coyotes. If I go the thermal route I'll just have to range various kill zones at each stand location during daylight hours then go in at night and kill them.
 
wigwamitus

wigwamitus

LSB Active Member
"Gen3" ... just be aware .. that there is a "HUGE" difference between "gen3" ... and "gen3p or equivalent" (a.k.a. L-3) ...

The "Gen3" tubes are closer to the "gen2" tubes than they are to the "gen3P" tubes in my experience. And I would not bother to own a "gen3" or a "gen2" ... but would keep saving up for a "gen3P or equivaent" ... I want to run the NV monocular without the ir-illuminator needing to be on all the time in "dark" conditions. The "gen3P" can handle that ... the "gen3" cannot.

==
If you are engaging the yotes at under about 250yds ... with a cartridge that will work for the job ... then you shouldn't have to "range" except to know if the yote is within 250yds or not. The reticle ranging can give a strong clue .. IF you get a broadside view of the yote. But yes, ranging the key terrain features in advance definitely helps.

Alternatively get a 1x thermal monocular. At 1x, your native ability to judge distance wiill not be upset by the magnification on the thermal. I like 1x thermal for 150yds or less for this reason and 97% of my night hunting shots have been under 100yds. The number of 200yd+ shots is tiny. So within those distances, the 50/200yds zero gives under 2 inchs of elevation difference with either 77gr SMK or 62gr Barnes TSX that I use for the 5.56(10.3/10.5). For the 6.5G(18) different story I'm good out to 150yds, but then need to hold up 4 inches at 200yds. So ranging becomes more critical with the 6.5G but for yotes, 5.56 is fine and hence 50/200yds zero mitigates having to know the exact range. And with a 200yd+ shot, call the yote closer or move closer or both.
 
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DarkNight

LSB Member
wigwamitus said:
"Gen3" ... just be aware .. that there is a "HUGE" difference between "gen3" ... and "gen3p or equivalent" (a.k.a. L-3) ...

The "Gen3" tubes are closer to the "gen2" tubes than they are to the "gen3P" tubes in my experience. And I would not bother to own a "gen3" or a "gen2" ... but would keep saving up for a "gen3P or equivaent" ... I want to run the NV monocular without the ir-illuminator needing to be on all the time in "dark" conditions. The "gen3P" can handle that ... the "gen3" cannot.

==
If you are engaging the yotes at under about 250yds ... with a cartridge that will work for the job ... then you shouldn't have to "range" except to know if the yote is within 250yds or not. The reticle ranging can give a strong clue .. IF you get a broadside view of the yote. But yes, ranging the key terrain features in advance definitely helps.

Alternatively get a 1x thermal monocular. At 1x, your native ability to judge distance wiill not be upset by the magnification on the thermal. I like 1x thermal for 150yds or less for this reason and 97% of my night hunting shots have been under 100yds. The number of 200yd+ shots is tiny. So within those distances, the 50/200yds zero gives under 2 inchs of elevation difference with either 77gr SMK or 62gr Barnes TSX that I use for the 5.56(10.3/10.5). For the 6.5G(18) different story I'm good out to 150yds, but then need to hold up 4 inches at 200yds. So ranging becomes more critical with the 6.5G but for yotes, 5.56 is fine and hence 50/200yds zero mitigates having to know the exact range. And with a 200yd+ shot, call the yote closer or move closer or both.
Click to expand...
So is gen 3p/L3 similar to filmless? Is the white phosphor tube a different beast?
 
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