Help: need a sheath

Ratdog68

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Otay, time to work on the edges of the leather. As you can see, the leather's still rough on the edges. Time to do a little sanding, one last edge bevel , and begin to burnish the edges. To burnish, you moisten the leather with water and rub the leather with a burnishing tool. This will lay the fibers down and smooth the texture. After that, coat the edges with "Gum Tragacanth" and burnish some more. The Gum Trag will seal the grain of the leather's edge, and promote a polished look/feel as you burnish. Once that's done, some edge dressing ink will color the edge.

Edge001_zpsr01mtkqm.jpg

Edge002_zpsanmpb72l.jpg


After that, a product called "Super Sheen" (another Tandy product) goes on to finish the leather. A few coats of that should suffice. That'll take it from flat in appearance, to a little bit of a sheen added.

Edge003_zpsrhh6oq2q.jpg


After that, gotta do some stitching, and tidy up the lanyards for the ferro rod and striker. We're getting close now guys.
 

theblakester

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Otay, time to work on the edges of the leather. As you can see, the leather's still rough on the edges. Time to do a little sanding, one last edge bevel , and begin to burnish the edges. To burnish, you moisten the leather with water and rub the leather with a burnishing tool. This will lay the fibers down and smooth the texture. After that, coat the edges with "Gum Tragacanth" and burnish some more. The Gum Trag will seal the grain of the leather's edge, and promote a polished look/feel as you burnish. Once that's done, some edge dressing ink will color the edge.

Edge001_zpsr01mtkqm.jpg

Edge002_zpsanmpb72l.jpg


After that, a product called "Super Sheen" (another Tandy product) goes on to finish the leather. A few coats of that should suffice. That'll take it from flat in appearance, to a little bit of a sheen added.

Edge003_zpsrhh6oq2q.jpg


After that, gotta do some stitching, and tidy up the lanyards for the ferro rod and striker. We're getting close now guys.
Looks awesome!
 

Ratdog68

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We're comin' down the home stretch now boys. Here's where we're at now. I need to stitch the leather after the finish cures/hardens. The retention snap is folded in such a manner that while walking forward, the snap won't catch on something and get popped open. I centered the retention strap between two of the pins holding the scales to the tang, and centered the knife on the belt loop, punched a hole in the two layers of leather and secured the retention strap to the belt loop with a rivet (chrome). I may stitch the two pieces together also, haven't made up my mind quite yet. I also separated the ferro rod striker from the lanyard, shortened the lanyard for the ferro rod, and made it so it'll loop down over the tip of the ferro rod to help keep it secured in the loop when not needed. Tug DOWN on the plastic keeper/knob and free it, and pull up to draw the ferro rod when needed. And, as you can see, the "Super Sheen" finish has provided a nice sheen/finish to the leather.

Finish001_zps8odlmtp9.jpg


Below, you can see the back side of the sheath, and the keeper/knob for the ferro rod lanyard.

Finish002_zpswgmnbn8r.jpg


The edges of the leather have been "slicked" with the burnishing tool and treated with the Gum Trag, the Edge Dressing Ink, as well as the "Super Sheen" finish. The edges are now smooth/sealed and more pleasing to the eye/touch.

Finish004_zpslb9yksnh.jpg


And, when the knife sheath is removed from your belt, you can access (via a little lanyard) the ferro rod striker and pull it from the pocket I made for it. The little lanyard for this is a decorative "diamond" knot (a/k/a: Lanyard Knot), using a piece of 1.18mm "micro cord" from Atwood Rope Mfg. (USA Made). You can also see the rivet used to secure the retention strap to the belt loop leather.

Finish003_zpss7h8pzqj.jpg


I wanted to post up pix of the sheath in this nearly completed state, so one can eyeball the difference the stitching will make to the appearance of the sheath after that's completed. The decorative stamping to create the Alaska Flag was done with a "star" stamping tool. I eyeballed the layout of the flag's design and just free hand stamped the design. The "brown bear" stamp is a 3D stamp tool used in the same manner. You dampen the leather with water, allow it to dry enough to appear dry, yet, still able to feel the dampness of the leather when touched with the back of your hand. By doing this, the leather "bruises" (darkens) when the tooling with the stamped impression is made.
 

bldsmith

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Really nice job there. Very Classy. Simple and very clean. A lot of guys can make a sheath but few can make it look like that.
 

Ratdog68

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Really nice job there. Very Classy. Simple and very clean. A lot of guys can make a sheath but few can make it look like that.
Thank you. Appreciate the kind words. Each project allows for something new to be learned (but, I don't need to tell you that), or, it should.

I had one project I did, made a clutch purse for a friend's wife. I was using a stamping tool I'd never used before. Similar to a basket weave design, but a triangular shape, rather than a rectangular shape. And, then it happened... front and center, on the closing flap... my stamping got off my line and it looked like crap. So... I learned how to do a snake skin inlay of leather. The pattern of the tool created a near replication of reptile scales, so, the fix fit the theme, and turned out great. I cut out the part I'd messed up on and used the section I'd cut out as the backing "plug" for the piece of snake skin. Added some rhinestone studs to accent the transition between the tooling and the inlay. When it was done, it looked like I'd intended it to look that way from the beginning.
 

FrankT

Destin FL
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Very nice, I really like the way you have done this!
 

Ratdog68

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Very nice, I really like the way you have done this!
See now, Frank? I've taught you how. Go forth and cut leather !! LOL
 

FrankT

Destin FL
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no, you have shown how you do it, far exceeds my patience and ability! You are the Master!
 

Ratdog68

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LOL... darn. I was hoping to create a monster and release your inner craftsman.
 

FrankT

Destin FL
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no there is no chance, too lazy and other interests,besides little patience.
 

Ratdog68

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Home stretch (I think). A stitch wheel gets run in the groove cut earlier. This defines the points of the stitching where the awl is pierced. There are different sized wheels on this tool to allow for varied spacing of the stitches. Here, I begin at the knife tip, roll up the spine side, then go back to the tip and roll up the edge side. This way, my stitch point lands AT the tip of the sheath and the spacing is even (both directions) from that point. The stitching awl is then used to pierce the leather before sewing the leather. You also get a more clear/detailed pic of the edges of the leather after being slicked/sealed/colored.

Stitching001_zpseg3n5w2l.jpg

Stitching002_zpsjj2khnak.jpg


The back side of the stitched sheath, how the ferro rod tucks in place, and letting the original sheath share in the pic for family posterity. The stitch line also passes through the tab for the ferro rod loop, further securing it to the sheath, supplementing the glue. The tab is flush with the back of the sheath after I carved out the leather to let it into the layer. The striker for the ferro rod is concealed from view when not needed.

Completed002_zpsfaffu7co.jpg


The front of the sheath is shown next. The front/back pix show that even the portions NOT receiving a stitch line, are dressed with a crease in the leather to define/dress the appearance. The knife will not "fall" from the sheath when the retention strap is unsnapped. During glue-up, I installed a strip of leather to the inside of the back layer. Each end was skived to a point. This strip of leather presses into the blade when sheathed, and the added friction retains the knife from simply falling free. If you look closely (back side of the sheath), you'll see a very slight "bulge" just to the left of the ferro rod tether tab. That's where the strip of leather inside is. Being on the spine side of the blade, it won't get cut as the blade is sheathed/drawn. The retention strap adds a second layer of retention, and keeps the handle of the knife from being pulled if caught on something... stressing the seams.

Completed001_zps8qazxlbr.jpg


And, finally... a close-up of the face of the sheath/stitching. As you can see here, the groove cut into the leather "beds" the stitches below the surface of the leather to protect them from abrasion, and for a little tidier appearance.

Completed003_zps9rw6ov9p.jpg


Tonight, another coat or two of the finish along the stitch lines, to allow it to seep into the stitching and add one more layer of protection for the sheath. Then, tomorrow afternoon, I'll take it to Tandy Leather for the critical eye to be laid to it, and verify I haven't overlooked anything. If it gets the nod of approval there (I'm pretty sure I will get it), it'll be off in Thursday's mail, home to Texas.
 

FrankT

Destin FL
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A thing of beauty to be handed down through the family!!
 

Ratdog68

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Thank you Frank.
 

Ratdog68

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LOL... I hope that's NOT a "No Bueno" look.
 

theblakester

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Not at all, quite the opposite!
 

Ratdog68

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'Gis checkin'. LOL
 
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