The more I use this stuff, the more I like it. Key to use is, heat the gun/parts up prior to application. I like using a heat gun, other options are the oven, or direct sunlight, even a hair drier. The liquid/paste are the same product, just different viscosity for varied application. For the paste, I like spreading it about with an old tooth brush. For the liquid, I find I really like one of those needle dispensing bottles (like an oiler)... cuts down on product waste. Product is good on all gun surfaces, is not a solvent based product either, it (in fact) is suitable for food grade use, and can be safely ingested. Application of heat opens the pores of the metal, the product then seeps into the metal. They liken it to "seasoning" cast iron cookware. After the metal cools, just wipe it down with a micro fiber cloth. Run patches down the bore to remove residue. The surfaces of the cleaned gun are dry to the touch, very smooth, and almost a slick/waxed feel. Hard anodized (AR) parts have a nice matte appearance to them. Since Frog Lube is a "CLP" product, no need to lubricate with oil. In fact, the use of petroleum products is discouraged, as Frog Lube will displace the petroleum products. Two applications (initially) for new parts is advised. Parts already treated with petroleum based products, they advise the use of an oil stripping solvent prior to Frog Lube application. As the weapon is fired/heated up, the pores of the metal begin to open up, and the Frog Lube weeps out, suspending the carbon fouling. A simple wiping down with a micro fiber cloth is all that is needed afterwards. When finished cleaning/treating a weapon, my hands are clean, no black grime under my nails either. The tooth brush bristles are fairly clean at their tips, and wiping down the rod/tools, no gunk residue remains on them either. The micro fiber cloth and patches collect the gunk. And, the tools, your hands, and your weapon smells like Wintergreen Life Savers. Bare stainless, QPQ treated, hard anodized treated, NiB coated, polymer... all end up with nothing more than the sheen they originally had (dry). No oily residue, grips do not feel slippery or gooey. The liquid applied to small moving parts is sufficient "oiling". A dry (new) squeaky charging handle latch smoothes out and quiets. Trigger pivot points, guide rods, mag releases, slide rails... I recommend having both, paste and liquid. And, I've talked with the folks at Frog Lube, they highly recommend using it on your black powder firearms as well. Since it's not a petroleum based product, it won't react to the carbon fouling and gum up/cake hard, seizing your black powder weapon. I'm also using it on my high carbon steel blades too. Again, heat 'em up and apply... allow to cool, and wipe clean. As usual, not affiliated, didn't receive the stuff for free, blah-blah-blah. Just sharing my results of using the stuff.